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shailey
08-11-2007, 10:18 PM
A very few early 04 and 05 titans had problems with differentials going out. Since then, not many have done so. I say very few because compared to the number of titans made, the ones that had problems were WAY less than 1%.

But we will learn a little as to what it is that breaks, what is strong and what the symptoms (if any) are.

First off, leaky axle seals will more than likely not ever cause a differential problem. It is highly unlikely that just because you have an axle seal leak, that it will turn into anything more than that. There normally just is not enough diff oil to come out through an axle seal leak to cause it to run dry. The first pic is what an axle seal looks like. The amount of fluid seen here may equal two teaspoons and this is as bad of a leak as I have seen on a titan.

http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14332&d=1156880324.jpg

Secondly, the cause of the early axle failures were the spider gears. Nothing else. The ring gear and pinion gears are very strong. In fact, got_titan had a ring gear bolt back out on his true trac and it did not do any damage to the ring gear on the drag strip.

The next two pics are of the spider gears and ring gear. The spider gears are the problem child. This differential is off my 05 titan and this was around 75,000 miles. This thing was still at the top of the factory spec range and it was holding good. Goodness knows I beat that truck to death and it did me well.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/8/22220555986.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/8/22220555914.jpg

As you can see the ring gear is a solid 9" ring gear and it has not given anyone any trouble.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/8/22220555971.jpg

The newer castings are better and have not given much trouble though.

Now on to the symptoms. In open style differentials it is common to get a humming noise when one is starting to go out. However, in most titans that had the problem they went out without ever making this humming sound. They did it without warning and they usually did it at low speeds or when someone was actually being "nice" to the truck.

Sometimes a clunking will occur, but since the rear end of the titan clunks anyway, this is hard to distinguish.

My suggestions are this. Just drive the truck and if it happens it happens. There is over a 99.6% chance that you will NEVER have a problem!


By the way, the early fix was a full synthetic diff fluid and a finned cover which was put on to displace heat. They said that rust was an indication of heat. However, take a look at this last picture. It is of a chevy rear end (that I took) that has 20,000 miles on it. I am willing to bet that you walk up to any rear end on a dodge, ford or chevy and you will see a rusted rear end.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/8/22220555938.jpg

knox_titan
08-12-2007, 09:19 AM
glad I dont have a rusted rear end!

tlmaniac
08-18-2007, 07:33 PM
i know all too well about diff problems my o6 had the diff replaced 4 times before it hit 40k the last one put in has lasted about 20k but it is getting noisy if its gonna break i hope it does it before october since that will be the end of the 24 month lemon law period in fla. if it does nissan is gonna have to eat about 25k in milage charges since i have already been to arbitration and after arbitration you arent responsible to pay for milage beyond the milage listed in the arbitration paperwork. but for now number 5 is alive

The_Homewrecker
08-18-2007, 08:07 PM
Nice write up!

jhromy
08-22-2007, 01:44 PM
nice write up...everybody can also solve the axle seal leak by doing the axle vent mod. The parts are less than $20 and it will solve this issue.

shailey
08-22-2007, 10:54 PM
Do you have a write up on how to do it?

Firecracker
08-22-2007, 10:57 PM
glad I dont have a rusted rear end!



TTTOOOO much information!!!

Firecracker
08-22-2007, 11:05 PM
Do you have a write up on how to do it?


I actually named this mod after the member that came up with it. Let's see if I can find it..............

Firecracker
08-22-2007, 11:54 PM
Okay, taken straight from the original post. I copied and pasted in case someone wasn't a member over at CT as well. That way they can see pictures without having to log in.

While performing a reconnaissance mission for the installation of my PMLI extra capacity differential cover I made a disturbing discovery. The design of the rear axle vent was unacceptable (to me) due to the possibility of water intrusion while 4 wheeling or at a boat ramp. The factory vent is basically a check valve that vents pressure to atmosphere (See Fig. 1). This type of vent invariably fails at some point in time and could allow the rear axle to become contaminated. A second problem, IMHO, is that when the axle cools with this type of vent it holds a vacuum inside the axle. This vacuum pulls in on the seals and when you resume driving the seals are being pulled extra hard into the shafts possibly causing extra seal wear. Now there are some types of seals that require pressure or vacuum to work, these are not they.

I consulted the Mickey Mouse engineering handbook and combined it with the ?I slept in a Holiday Inn Express? attitude and came up with the following: First was a trip to Ace Hardware and the AutoZone. I purchased a 1/8MPT thread to hose adapter from the ACE. Much to my surprise that is the correct size. Next it was off to the AutoZone for six feet of 5/16 fuel line and a cheap fuel filter (no check valve style). See fig2. I chose to put a filter on there as a deterrent for dirt, dust and debris from getting into the vent tube and it was cheap so what the heck.

I then removed the stock breather and installed the adapter to the axle with a dab of sealant on the threads. I then clamped and routed the hose up into the right, rear taillight area and used some wire ties to keep it in place. Note; be sure to leave plenty of extra line between the axle and your first tie. There needs to be enough to allow for axle movement, especially extension. Fig 6 shows a good place run a tie in the taillight area.

The whole job was relatively quick, easy and well worth it for my needs. I did have a quick look at the front axle vent and it appears to be good. I?m pretty sure it?s the long tube that dumps right below the engine air filter box. I still need to figure out the transmission vent and transfer case vent?


Pics are coming..........

Firecracker
08-23-2007, 12:02 AM
Axle Vent Mod Pictures:

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7655/fig1zh0.jpg

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2571/fig2kj9.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3325/fig3mv9.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1583/fig4td0.jpg

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/9475/fig5bn8.jpg

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7040/fig6ee7.jpg

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/1681/fig7fl8.jpg

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/3830/fig8bn5.jpg

Firecracker
08-23-2007, 12:02 AM
I must say this is a great mod. I must also say that my axle did not have a vent in it, all it had was a plastic threaded plug, no vent at all when I removed it, the axle had at least 30 psi of air trapped and expanding in it. I removed the plug and the air rush out of the hole was so great that it literally whistled and decompressed for at least 3 or 4 seconds! HMMMMM, I wonder why rear axle seals are failing?

I purchased the recommended Toyota nipple and parts listed in this thread. They all worked well, no issues at all with the installation. I made sure to leave a jounce and rebound coil in the vent hose using the natural curvature of the hose to create it. I then followed the factory wire harness to the rear of the truck using its clips to provide the support for the vent hose. I also placed two feet of convolute on the hose to insure that it would not chaff on any of the sheet metal or the bed mounts. The hose was tight enough that it really did not need any hose clamps to hold the filter on. It will need to be cut off if I ever need to change it. All in all this should save my rear axle seals from failing, I?m surprised they had not failed with the amount of air pressure residing in it.


http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/183/fig9ut6.jpg

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/2503/fig91ws4.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4276/fig92iy7.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3141/fig93my7.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/7279/fig94jk5.jpg

bighitter
08-23-2007, 08:23 PM
I guess I will need to do this! Thanks for the great write up!

HRTKD
08-23-2007, 08:45 PM
How is the existing axle vent removed? Do you just yank it out?

shailey
08-23-2007, 11:22 PM
It has been a long time since I put a wrench on it, but I believe it is 14 mm. You just remove it like a regular bolt. Then you put the new nipple in and run the tube up to the tail light area somehow. I never did it and it has probably been two years since I read anything on it.

HRTKD
08-24-2007, 04:38 PM
I went to the Toyota dealer to get the plastic replacement insert. They were out of stock. I guess he thought he could find a different part that would work so he asked me what it was for. I said, "Nissan Titan." That didn't register immediately and he started typing it in. Then he looked up at me with one of those "Oh no, another idiot that I have to deal with" looks. I just smiled and said it was for a custom modification. That got me the "Whatever, as long as I can get him out of here" look. The part was $7.50 and I'll pick it up next week.

The part number for the insert for the Axle Vent Mod is 90404-51026. It is a plastic part and I'm a lot more comfortable with using a plastic part that should fit than a metal part that might fit and could mess up the existing thread in the axle.

Penguin
08-24-2007, 07:51 PM
I get the impression that Stephen was one of those kids who got bored and took all of his toys apart to see how they worked! :D

Good education lesson on the Titan rear!

shailey
08-24-2007, 09:05 PM
LOL You are right. I used to always take stuff apart and put it back together. Nothing like taking apart the stereo or alarm clock that belongs to you mom. LOL

GreenHulk
09-05-2007, 11:08 PM
you did that just to miss school