View Full Version : Changing Differential Fluid
shailey
08-11-2007, 07:03 PM
This is very simple to do yourself.
First off, make certain you can get the upper filler plug loose before you drain the fluid. Nothing worse than having to run to the parts store for a new plug when without any diff fluid in the rear end. The end results are not good.
Now then, loosen the lower plug on the bottom of the differential casing and let all the old drain out.
Now clean off the magnetic drain plug. Do not let metallic parts scare you, this is normal.
Now put silicone tape on the plug and put it back in. Now fill the rear end through the upper plug with 76 ounces of FULLY SYNTHETIC 75W-140 differential oil. I prefer Mobil One.
I would recommend the first change being done BEFORE 10,000 miles and then no more than every 30,000 miles after that. I personally do it every 15,000.
Here is what dirty diff fluid looks like
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/8/22220555881.jpg
HRTKD
08-23-2007, 09:07 PM
The Nissan Titan Maintenance Manual that I have in PDF format says to use "Genuine Silicone RTV" to seal the drain and fill plugs. That's what I used. Kind of messy though. The teflon tape is probably a lot less messy.
shailey
08-23-2007, 11:20 PM
I personally use the teflon tape too.
etalian2005
08-26-2007, 07:22 PM
how do you use this teflon tape?
Penguin
08-27-2007, 10:15 AM
how do you use this teflon tape?
It comes in a little roll. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes rather quickly. It's used on any application with threads to prevent any leakage (air or fluid). It's a white, rubbery tape. Just rmemeber to wind it onto the threads in the same direction for tightening... otherwise, you'll spin it right off the plug when putting it in.
etalian2005
08-27-2007, 07:51 PM
thank you. i'm about to change it out once i hit 5000. i'm at 32xx right now. at 5000, i'm also switching the engine oil to full synthetic also. it was changed once at 1650 to get the metal shavings out and i will change it at 5000 to go from conventional to synthetic.
tlmaniac
08-29-2007, 07:57 PM
i have changed my diff fuid twice in the 30k thats on my most recent diff and every time it has about 3/8" or metal on the plug. im only concerned cause i have been thru 4 already
HRTKD
08-29-2007, 08:15 PM
You have been through FOUR differentials???? Good grief, what are you doing to those poor things? LOL!
BigBertha
08-29-2007, 08:47 PM
Wow, I changed my around 10K and it was clear as new and just minor shavings on the magnetic plug.
It's an 06 after they changed to Syn Gear Lube!
titanse05
08-29-2007, 08:53 PM
Another good idea is to clean the axle breather. Mine was clooged and was causing the rear axle seals to leak from the buidup of heat and pressure. It's located on the top passanger side of the axle and should be checked regularly if you off road like I do.
etalian2005
08-30-2007, 12:54 AM
Another good idea is to clean the axle breather. Mine was clooged and was causing the rear axle seals to leak from the buidup of heat and pressure. It's located on the top passanger side of the axle and should be checked regularly if you off road like I do.
both axle's or just rear axle? how to you check it?
Penguin
08-30-2007, 01:09 AM
i have changed my diff fuid twice in the 30k thats on my most recent diff and every time it has about 3/8" or metal on the plug. im only concerned cause i have been thru 4 already
Offroad package, much? :D ;)
Penguin
08-30-2007, 01:11 AM
Another good idea is to clean the axle breather. Mine was clooged and was causing the rear axle seals to leak from the buidup of heat and pressure. It's located on the top passanger side of the axle and should be checked regularly if you off road like I do.
both axle's or just rear axle? how to you check it?
It's on the rear axel, on the top, to the right of the differential. It's a little brass cylinder thingy. You'll see that there should be a small amount of moisture around it (if it is working properly)
knox_titan
08-30-2007, 09:02 AM
Think we can probably get some pics of how to do this pretty soon........lol
HRTKD
08-30-2007, 10:10 AM
Is there an Axle Vent Mod writeup here already? If not, I'll do it. I'm going to be doing mine this weekend.
Penguin
08-30-2007, 10:12 AM
Good deal!
...especially since I cannot take pics of my now, non-existent Titan.
shailey
08-30-2007, 04:41 PM
Is there an Axle Vent Mod writeup here already? If not, I'll do it. I'm going to be doing mine this weekend.
That would be GREAT!
etalian2005
08-30-2007, 07:01 PM
What exactly is the axle vent mod? And are their any drawbacks to it?
baseballfanz
08-30-2007, 07:11 PM
What exactly is the axle vent mod? And are their any drawbacks to it?
Look at your rear axle, by the passenger side wheel on top of the axle. It's supposed to be a breather to help alleviates pressure in your axle. Nissan just use a simple check valve that might allow water in when off roading, some people have swap it out and attach a rubber hose, run up along side the bed and have the opening somewhere up high to prevent sucking in of water.
shailey
08-30-2007, 08:58 PM
The original check valve would stick quite often as well.
etalian2005
08-30-2007, 09:21 PM
thanks guys. i will be taking a look at this a little later.
GreenHulk
08-30-2007, 11:04 PM
Firecraker did apost on this the thread is rear end problems by Shaily
shailey
08-31-2007, 07:33 AM
Yes he did and I am going to make a thread with it and make a sticky out of it.
TitanBlue
09-02-2007, 09:40 PM
You can go to a Toyota dealership and pay about $3 for a part they use, which is a hose barb for 1/4" Hose on one end, and 1/8" NPTF (also called Dryseal) Thread on the other. It is a good quality coated steel hose barb to use with the Axle Vent Mod. I don't recall the part number. A traditional Tapered Pipe Thread will not fit easily. Even the Dryseal is difficult as it is such a fine thread, but the correct one! :)
I think we hijacked! This needs to be in the Axle Vent Mod Thread! Only 2 post, and I'm alrready confused!
HRTKD
09-02-2007, 09:57 PM
Axle Vent Mod writeup is on its way. Give me an hour.
etalian2005
09-03-2007, 02:18 AM
Axle Vent Mod writeup is on its way. Give me an hour.
Thank you very much. I would love to see the write-up on this because I don't quite understand how it works.
HRTKD
09-03-2007, 02:41 AM
I tried to post it Sunday evening, but technical difficulties prevented it. The site wouldn't accept my pictures.
etalian2005
09-03-2007, 02:42 AM
well, you'll get it to work one way or another. maybe the server was acting screwy. try PMing one of the mods.
GreenHulk
09-08-2007, 09:47 PM
just ghange the diff fluid 10,000 miles man it was black I wonder if they need change every 10,000 or sooner
shailey
09-08-2007, 10:12 PM
The first one is by far the worst. That is when the diff gears are wearing in and have the most metallic breakdown which creates LOTS of heat! I think the first one should be done before 10k and every 15k after that.
HRTKD
09-08-2007, 11:06 PM
This is perhaps a bit off the main topic of the thread, but it does have to do with differential fluid...
If you're going to change your own differnential fluid and if you are the least bit messy (like me) then consider wearing throw away clothing. I changed my differential fluids wearing an old T-shirt and old jeans. Things got a bit messy and some of the fluid got on my shirt. After two washings my family still complained bitterly about the nasty smell when I wore that T-shirt. I eventually had to throw it away because it did indeed smell nasty.
etalian2005
09-09-2007, 01:04 AM
thanks for the tip.
jaho1979
09-09-2007, 01:06 AM
thank you. i'm about to change it out once i hit 5000. i'm at 32xx right now. at 5000, i'm also switching the engine oil to full synthetic also. it was changed once at 1650 to get the metal shavings out and i will change it at 5000 to go from conventional to synthetic.
I didn't use any tape when I changed mine, and no leaks here. It can't hurt though. Let me know if you need any help with it Nick.
etalian2005
09-09-2007, 01:09 AM
Actually Jason, I would really appreciate the help of you showing me how to do it as long as it's no trouble for you. I would really love you to help me change it and my engine oil when I get to 5000. I want to go with full synthetic on the engine as well. Do you think I should change the fluid in the front diff since I've only used 4x4 one time so far?
GreenHulk
09-09-2007, 01:16 PM
its nice to have some do the dirty work on you truck
HRTKD
09-09-2007, 01:29 PM
Do you think I should change the fluid in the front diff since I've only used 4x4 one time so far?
I did my front differential at the same time I did the rear. I had only used it for a few miles. I figured that it couldn't hurt to do the front and I was already doing the rear so it was just a little more time under the truck.
etalian2005
09-09-2007, 03:44 PM
Yea, that's what I'm thinking also.
etalian2005
09-09-2007, 03:45 PM
its nice to have some do the dirty work on you truck
No, he's not doing the dirty work. He's going to teach me how to do the dirty work since this is my first vehicle and I've never done anything like this before and need to learn how!
I think this is on the same topic but, has anyone changed their differential cover? I am thinking about the Mag-Hytec for Christmas. Does anyone think the Mag-Hytec is any good? Is it hard to change the cover? I am also planning on putting Amsoil in there while I am at. Any comments would be appreciated!
shailey
10-04-2007, 09:46 AM
It isn't hard to change the cover. All you need is a ratchet and a flathead screwdriver.
1) Drain fluid per this thread
2) Remove all of the bolts
3) Bend the tabs on the upper part of the cover so you can release the brake lines
4) Use a flathead screwdriver to split the cover apart
5) Make certain and remove ALL of the gasket maker from the differential housing with some kind of a brush or even a dremel tool. But be careful about getting shavings in the housing and if you get some in there, clean them up.
6) Use RTV gasket maker (at least 200*) and spread it generously on the housing.
7) Clean the new cover (preferrably with alcohol) to make certain ALL chemicals/oils are removed if there are any.
8) Put the new cover on and torque the bolts to 31 ft/lbs.
9) Remove drain plug from the new cover and replace fluid with 75w-140 fully synthetic diff fluid. Original capacity is 76 ounces. If the new cover has a larger capacity like the Stillen unit, fill until it starts to come out of the hole. Proper level should be just at the bottom of the inlet hole.
Done
shailey,
Thanks for the response. I do have some questions. The Mag-Hytec has an o-ring, so do I still need to use RTV? Also, what do you mean by bend the tabs on the upper part of the cover so I can release the brake lines? Is it hard to pry the cover off? And what if I don't have a torque wrench to get the 31 ft/lbs? Thanks again for your help.
knox_titan
10-04-2007, 12:55 PM
I can help on some of this........... the brake line runs just above the diff cover, so you need to bend that tab to be able to move the brake line out enough to take the cover off. And not its not real hard to pry it off. You can get the torque wrenches from auto zone for free. You just have to leave them with a deposit and when you bring it back they give you the deposit back.
hope this was some help
I can help on some of this........... the brake line runs just above the diff cover, so you need to bend that tab to be able to move the brake line out enough to take the cover off. And not its not real hard to pry it off. You can get the torque wrenches from auto zone for free. You just have to leave them with a deposit and when you bring it back they give you the deposit back.
hope this was some help
Yes, that was some good help. Do you have any idea about the RTV and o-ring? Are you familiar with the Mag-Hytec?
knox_titan
10-04-2007, 02:06 PM
I am not familiar with the Mag-Hytec at all, but I do not rember seeing where an o-ring would work very well with our rear diff. You would have to check with Shailey or some of the others on this one. There is not an O-Ring on the stock diff I know that, and that crap is a pain to clean off the diff cover and diff.
shailey
10-04-2007, 10:40 PM
LOL What's wrong Nate, don't like cleaning that crap out? LOLOL For 31 ft./lbs, I would turn it, get it tight and then turn another 1/3 turn. But run all of them up just barely EQUALLY snug before you start running them up tight.
On the mag-hytec, you will use the o-ring that they send with it because it will go into a channel that is made for it.
However, I would look and see if it lines up with the channels on the titans' differential housing because if that ring goes OUTSIDE the housing channels, it could allow seapage. I personally have not seen how one lines up with the housing on the titan, but I have seen them for domestic applications and they do pretty good. So check that out first before you decide to put it on there or not.
Have a tube ready, you could always take it back if you don't use it.
etalian2005
10-04-2007, 10:55 PM
Very informative. Although I must ask, if you don't tow or haul, is there really any purpose for a larger diff cover at all?
shailey
10-04-2007, 11:03 PM
It will lower the overall temp of the fluid inside the diff. If you are on the road continuously or for long periods of time very often then it is very beneficial to you. Like me for instance, I bought this truck brand new in April, it now has over 22,000 miles on it. More fluid is beneficial to me.
Very informative. Although I must ask, if you don't tow or haul, is there really any purpose for a larger diff cover at all?
The most obvious reason is to do another mod to your truck to talk about on Might Titans.com. I thought that was the only reason we did anything to our trucks!
etalian2005
10-05-2007, 07:19 PM
haha. thanks for the info Mr. 96000 posts. ;D
shailey
10-05-2007, 10:40 PM
Thanks, I may get to 100,000 before this post is over. LOL
etalian2005
10-06-2007, 02:49 PM
You just might...
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